We entered Prague late on a December evening, the train chugging into the main station — Praha Hlavní Nádraží (Praha hl.n.)., and it was already dark by then.
The Arrival
So obviously the first thing noticeable is how different the station looks and feels. The current functional building dates back to the 1970s, built during the Czechoslovak socialist era, and you can see it – the heavy lines, the utilitarian design – quite some contrast to what you’d expect in a European capital.
There is an older, more ornate station building too — an Art Nouveau structure from 1909, designed by architect Josef Fanta — but depending on where you enter or exit, it might not be noticeable immediately. What you’re more likely to experience first is the newer section — slightly dimmer, more worn, and yes, with that unmistakable Eastern European, almost old Soviet-era feel – less curated, less polished.
Picked up our bags, stepped out into the cold, and trudged our way towards our AirBnB, our suitcases clattering on the cobblestoned streets of Prague.
It was late and we were exhausted, so there was nothing much to do other than just lounge in front of the TV while munching on takeaway grub.
Day 1 – Český Krumlov
We woke the next day, to a nice surprise – train tickets to Český Krumlov, at a heavily discounted rate – and that was a sign from the universe – you never leave a 50% discount, and plus Český Krumlov was already on our must-do list. So, even though our bodies screamed rest, we lunged out of bed, thanking our stars and to get ready for a day trip.
You can read all about that glorious day in this post linked below.
Day 2 – New Year’s Eve already
End of year already, but where did it go ! Anyway, the last day of 2025 demanded a chill vibe. And plus it was yours truly’s husband’s birthday. So, chill we did. A very lazy morning was spent at the BnB, with hot coffee, muffins and a balcony seat to a Prague winter morning. It was snowing – coming down softly at first, then heavier and then slowing down again, like it couldn’t decide how to celebrate the day. And honestly, neither could we !
It took us a while to finally step out.
The Astronomical Clock
Right in the middle of Old Town Square, it’s hard to miss – the Prague Astronomical Clock – not because it’s loud or flashy, but because people actually stop around it with their cameras pointed up and then you’re bound to follow suit 🤪
Mounted on the wall of the Old Town Hall, the clock has been there since 1410, which makes it the oldest astronomical clock in the world that’s still working.
At first glance, it doesn’t read like a clock at all. There’s no simple face, no clear markers. Instead — colours, symbols, moving parts — like a Dan Brown novel, if I might say (coz I was reading The Secret of Secrets then #IYKYK)! And that’s because it’s not just telling time. The main dial tracks multiple things at once – the position of the sun and moon, different systems of time, and even zodiac movements. It’s as much about astronomy as it is about timekeeping.
And then there’s the part the people wait for. Every hour, between 9 AM and 11 PM, the clock comes alive. Two small windows above the dial open, and the Twelve Apostles pass by one after the other. Around the clock, a few other figures move too — a skeleton representing Death rings a bell, a figure with a mirror stands for vanity, another clutches a bag of money, and one shakes its head. It all lasts less than a minute, but it’s enough to pull a crowd “every” single time.
Below the main dial is the calendar wheel, (apparently added later), which shows the months of the year along with seasonal scenes. It’s more decorative, but still part of the larger system the clock represents.
And this very old structure hasn’t had an easy run! It’s been repaired multiple times over the centuries, and during World War II, it was badly damaged when the Old Town Hall caught fire during the Prague Uprising in 1945. The version, as of this writing, is the result of restorations, the most recent major one completed in 2018, bringing it back as close as possible to its original form.
But none of that is immediately obvious when you’re standing there. What you notice first is the crowd — people gathering, looking up, waiting for something to happen. And then, when it does, it’s understated (and wasn’t understandable to me at all till I read about it ! – you can hear a “What happened” from me at the end of the video – I was so clueless)
But yeah, no big spectacle – just a mechanism that’s been doing its job for over 600 years, still keeping people in place for a minute, every hour. And then everyone moves on.
We walked further into the Prague Old Town after that, not entirely swept away by the many layers and mechanisms of the very old astronomical clock, probably because at that time, I did not understand the magnanimity of the historical and engineering marvel that it is.
By then, the snow had started getting heavier, and we were hungrier. And naturally, that meant it was time to find food.
The Lunch
Being New Year’s Eve in Prague, we had expected long waits everywhere, so getting a table at Švejk restaurant within ten minutes honestly felt like a win. We settled into a warm restaurant tucked into the old town streets, while outside the snow kept building steadily through the windows.
A Hovězí guláš (Czech Goulash) and Svíčková na smetaně (Sirloin of beef in traditional Czech cream sauce) paired with traditional sides of Houskové Knedlíky (bread dumplings).
The Goulash was thick, dark, less soup-like and more of a rich stew slow-cooked to perfection – the meat so tender, with sliced onions and pickled peppers adding that zing !
And the second dish, although a bit sweet with the creamy sauce and garnished with whipped cream and cranberry sauce was absolutely delightful with it’s very complex taste profile. The bread dumplings were new to us but so perfect to soak up the gravy. And all washed down with Czech Pilsner.
And then we stepped back out into the cold and started walking through the streets of Prague Old Town again. By then, evening had properly settled over the city. We walked toward the Charles Bridge, but by the time we got onto it, it was already dark.
The bridge itself was beautiful, of course — lit lamps stretching into the distance, silhouettes moving through the cold, the Vltava River below catching fragments of light. But we couldn’t properly make out were the statues. And that felt criminal.
The Charles Bridge statues, most of them Baroque replicas added between the 17th and 18th centuries, are a huge part of the bridge’s identity. Saints, crucifixes, religious figures — each with its own history and symbolism. But in the darkness, they were mostly outlines and shadows, impossible to properly appreciate.
So we decided to leave the Charles Bridge statues for another day — preferably in daylight, when we could actually stop and take them in properly instead of just squinting at silhouettes in the dark.
We had no fixed plans for the evening. There were fireworks to think about later, we’d checked out the locations in advance — but we left that entirely to how we’d feel as the night unfolded. We just wandered back into the Old Town, letting Prague on New Year’s Eve happen around us instead of trying to chase it. And somewhere in between the lights, the cold, the food, the walking, and the complete lack of urgency, the evening settled into what it really was – two people together on the last night of the year, making the most of it, whether indoors, outdoors, or somewhere in between.
Day 3 – Starting the First Day of 2026 Above the City
The first morning of 2026 began uphill. Quite literally !
Thanks to our decision of a slow and peaceful new year’s eve, we were up and about on the very first morning of the year and headed toward Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) — the city’s most recognisable landmarks. And, according to the Guinness World Records, the largest coherent castle complex in the world, covering roughly 70,000 square metres.
Unlike the word “castle” might suggest, this isn’t a single structure. It’s an entire district layered into the hill above the Vltava River – churches, courtyards, palaces, towers, lanes, government buildings, viewpoints, and centuries of architecture all packed into one massive complex that has evolved continuously since the 9th century.
Getting There — What To Know Before Visiting Prague Castle
We had booked our Prague Castle tickets in advance, which I would strongly recommend, especially around the holiday period. The queues at the ticket counters can get long, and pre-booking usually gives you access to:
- the main circuit ticket
- priority entry in some sections
- and often an audio guide app
Now, this is where an important practical detail comes in. The network around Prague Castle is surprisingly unreliable, especially once you’re deeper inside the complex or surrounded by heavy crowds. And because many tours now rely on app-based audio guides instead of physical devices, this became mildly annoying very quickly – our audio guide kept buffering and failed to load and we gave up on it.
There is a standard visitor route for Prague Castle (as per the guide pamphlets and audio) which is designed to move through the complex in a fairly logical historical sequence, although once inside, the crowds and open courtyards, it’s difficult to fathom which direction to go in and the crowd (read queue) is the longest outside the cathedral at any given hour !
So anyway, most guides and audio tours generally follow this order:
- The Main Courtyard
- St. Vitus Cathedral
- Old Royal Palace
- Basicila of St. George
- Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička)
The Main Courtyard and First Impressions of the castle complex
Large gates, security checks, heavy crowds slowly filtering through, the scale gradually revealing itself as you move upward, and breathless, thanks to the number of stairs leading to the castle and your experience has already begun. This is where the scale of Prague Castle first starts becoming apparent with administrative buildings, ceremonial façades and even guards. And I absolutely have to make this comparison to Austria (coz we were there just before Prague) – unlike castles in Austria that often feel decorative, even ornate and scenic, this one was just plain gothic, nothing soft about it.
St. Vitus Cathedral — The Centrepiece of Prague Castle
There’s all of Prague. And then there’s St. Vitus Cathedral.
Long before you actually reach it, the cathedral follows you around Prague – you keep spotting it from different corners of Prague – the spires visible above rooftops, beyond bridges, from the riverbanks, from gaps between buildings in the old town, rising over the city skyline almost like a marker guiding you back toward the castle.
But seeing it from a distance and standing beneath it are two completely different experiences.
The shift in scale is almost disorienting.
The same cathedral that looked elegant from afar now rises above you endlessly — dark Gothic spires disappearing upward, sharp arches, stone carvings layered over every visible surface and eventually disappearing upward, towers stretching so high that you instinctively crane your neck trying to find where it all finally ends. And honestly, then, it does not feel elegant at all, rather just overwhelmingly enormous !
Construction of St. Vitus Cathedral began in 1344 under Charles IV, when Prague was being developed as an important imperial capital of the Holy Roman Empire. And it took nearly 600 years to complete, with final works only finishing in 1929. Because of that, the structure carries elements from multiple architectural periods while still remaining overwhelmingly Gothic in character.
The Exteriors
From close range, it isn’t just the scale, even the detailing becomes impossible to fully process. Gargoyles, flying buttresses, carved stone façades, narrow pointed windows — every section feels excessively worked upon, as though no surface was allowed to remain plain.
The Interiors
And then we stepped inside – and the atmosphere changed ! The towering exterior gives way to cavernous interiors. Massive Gothic columns rise into ribbed vaulted ceilings far overhead.
The entire space filled with filtered light from the cathedral’s stained glass windows, while the coloured reflections from the windows move softly across the stone floors and walls.
One of the most famous stained glass panels was created by Alfons Mucha, the Czech Art Nouveau artist, and it stands out even among the cathedral’s already elaborate interiors.
Chapel of St. Wenceslas
Further inside lies the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, one of the most important spaces in the entire Czech Republic. Dedicated to Saint Wenceslas, the patron saint of Bohemia, the chapel marks the location of his tomb. This section is intensely decorative with semi-precious stones cover the walls, gold detailing catches the low light, and the atmosphere shifts from grand to deeply ceremonial.
This chapel also connects symbolically to Czech statehood itself, because above it lies the chamber where the Czech Crown Jewels are stored. The jewels are not permanently displayed and are only brought out publicly on rare occasions under strict protocol.
Although, the chapel is not open for the general public to walk inside, it is easily viewed from the entrance doorways inside the cathedral.
The Organs
A very striking feature are the cathedral’s organs in the northern transept – just like pipes stretching upward into the Gothic interiors, framed against stone vaulting. It sits so elevated within the transept, it doesn’t immediately register as a musical instrument
Every section of the cathedral leads into another chapel, another tomb, another sculpture, another ceiling detail. And every corner seems to hold some fragment of Czech history, Gothic architecture, royal legacy, religious symbolism, or medieval craftsmanship.
There’s the crypt beneath the cathedral, holding the remains of Bohemian kings and rulers. The Golden Gate entrance, once used for coronation processions. Tiny carved grotesques hidden high above pillars. Ancient coats of arms. Stonework weathered unevenly across centuries.
And then there are the things impossible to fully understand (maybe possible with a guide) — inscriptions, symbols, heraldry, side altars — details that quietly belong to another era altogether.
But well, it’s a structure built over nearly six centuries – you keep discovering and turning back for that one last look even while walking out of it !
Old Royal Palace — The Political Heart of Prague Castle
After the overwhelming scale and detail of St. Vitus Cathedral, stepping into the Old Royal Palace at Prague Castle feels a bit restrained. And yet, historically, this was one of the most important buildings in the entire complex.
Originally founded in the 12th century and expanded over several centuries, the palace served as the seat of Bohemian rulers long before Prague became the capital we recognise today. A place where decisions, ceremonies, coronations, and power itself once moved through its halls.
Not much to describe of what’s on the outside, but once inside, it demands attention.
Vladislav Hall
Built at the end of the 15th century under King Vladislaus II, Vladislav Hall was considered an architectural achievement for its time because of its enormous open space and intricate vaulted ceilings. The hall stretches dramatically overhead with late Gothic ribbed vaulting that almost resembles stone waves frozen mid-motion. This wasn’t just a ceremonial hall for banquets and coronations. Historical records show that knights on horseback once entered the hall for indoor tournaments – ummm, difficult to imagine though!
After the magnanimity of the cathedral, the palace interiors feel simple – thick walls, long corridors, large windows overlooking Prague, wooden elements darkened with age.
Another important section connected to the palace is the Bohemian Chancellery, associated with the famous Defenestration of Prague in 1618 — the event where Protestant nobles threw Catholic officials out of a castle window, triggering the beginning of the Thirty Years’ War.
Basilica of St. George — The Quietest Corner of Prague Castle
The Basilica of St. George at Prague Castle was founded around 920 AD by Prince Vratislaus I and is one of the oldest surviving church buildings within the entire Prague Castle complex and one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in Prague.
From outside, the basilica has a striking reddish façade and twin white towers, though much of what is seen today comes from later Baroque modifications added after fires and reconstructions over centuries.
The interiors are thick Romanesque stone walls, rounded arches and subdued lighting – lending a feeling of restrained.
The basilica was historically connected to a Benedictine convent founded beside it, making this not just a royal religious structure, but also an important monastic centre in medieval Bohemia. Inside lie the tombs of members of the Přemyslid dynasty, the earliest Czech ruling family. It also contains the burial site of Saint Ludmila, grandmother of Saint Wenceslas and one of the most important early Christian figures in Czech history.
Overall, this building felt very detached from the rest of the castle complex outside – maybe because it lacked the overall grandeur compared to the rest of the buildings.
Golden Lane — Tiny Houses Beneath the Weight of a Castle
And then finally, tucked away toward the edge of the Prague Castle complex, comes Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička) — something which I honestly did not understand what the fuss was about – and it’s only in times like these when I truly miss having a guide !
A narrow little street pressed directly against the old castle fortifications, lined with small colourful houses, and that’s about it.
Now I had no clue what I was seeing or what pictures I should have been taking but reading later the lane dates back to the late 15th and 16th centuries, when the tiny houses were built into the arches of the castle’s defensive walls. Over time, the lane became home to common people like castle guards, craftsmen, servants and goldsmiths – which in most likelihood inspired the name “Golden lane”. I’ve been lead to believe (basis what I read) that it feels charming and fairy tale like, but in all honesty, it looked like just an extremely crowded street leading the crowd towards the exit! But well, maybe I made a mistake and look too hard coz I was tired, and hopefully, you will not make the mistake after reading this, and look better for the gold in the lane !
So, anyway, Golden Lane, lead us towards the exit of the castle complex, and the pathways leading down opened up into viewpoints over the city – red rooftops stretched endlessly, the Vltava River curved through the middle of it all, splitting the city gently, and bridges connecting one side of Prague to the other like thin lines drawn across water.
The day had already started slipping into evening as we finally exited and after hours inside churches, halls, towers, tombs, courtyards, and centuries of layered history, the open air outside felt nice and light !
We headed towards the riverside. The descent from Prague Castle into Malá Strana (Lesser Town) was a rather nice walk with narrow cobbled lanes and old lanterns beginning to glow.
And then the views from the riverside (almost) near the Charles Bridge – the bridge arching across the Vltava, while the towers of the old town rise behind it in layers. And in the evening, with lights beginning to reflect on the water and the sky turning darker by the minute, the entire stretch was surreal.
We walked slowly along the riverbank for a while, before making our way back into town again. Somewhere along that route we even came across the Franz Kafka Museum. Honestly, I could never understand his books – the stories always filled with unease, bureaucracy, alienation, and strange surrealism, but walking through Prague’s narrow lanes and old buildings, I could almost understand how the city might have shaped that kind of writing – mysterious and detached even!
We headed back to our BnB for a bit – to quickly freshen up before a medieval themed dinner !
The Medieval Tavern Experience
We had booked a medieval dining experience at Medieval Tavern “U Pavouka” — one of Prague’s well-known themed taverns tucked into the old town lanes near Celetná Street. And honestly, after spending the entire day surrounded by Gothic churches, castle halls, royal tombs, and centuries-old architecture, the whole idea weirdly fit the mood of the city perfectly.
The walk there itself added to the atmosphere. The town was fully lit by then, the streets buzzing softly with tourists, winter jackets, mulled wine stalls, and restaurants overflowing into the evening. And then back in one of those older Prague lanes, you step into a completely different setting. Stone walls. Dim lighting. Long wooden benches. Vaulted underground interiors that feel somewhere between a tavern and a dungeon.
The entire experience at Medieval Tavern “U Pavouka” is designed like a theatrical medieval banquet. Imagine, overflowing beer mugs, performers weaving between tables, loud applause, strangers laughing at the same things and for a few hours, the whole place giving the feels of a medieval-themed fever dream unfolding underground in the middle of Prague.
The food itself leaned heavily into traditional medieval “”Game of Thrones” (honestly that and the Vikings are all I can think of when seeing this kinda setup) kinda food territory – roasted meats, potatoes, rich sauces, bread, large portions, and enough beer flowing around the room to keep the energy exactly where the tavern wanted it. No, we could not eat the food (my roast pork was way too hairy even after being cooked), but the cake was yum and that and the experience honestly was enough.
Was it touristy? Absolutely. The locals would probably even roll their eyes at it !
But I would still recommend experiencing Medieval Tavern U Pavouka in Prague at least once – coz Prague somehow lends itself beautifully to this kind of exaggerated medieval atmosphere. Outside, the city already looks centuries old. Inside the tavern, they simply take that feeling and dial it all the way up with all the possible quirks!
Day 4 – Witnessing the city beneath the postcards
Our last day in Prague, and we had crossed the Charles Bridge enough number of times, but always in passing — in the dark, in the cold, with crowds moving around us and not enough light to really stop and look at it properly. So on our last day, we came back, to witness in broad daylight this bridge which is more an open-air gallery layered with religion, politics, legends, and centuries of Prague itself.
Construction of the Charles Bridge (Karlův most) began in 1357 under King Charles IV, replacing the older Judith Bridge that had been destroyed by floods. According to popular historical accounts, the foundation stone was laid at a very specific symbolic time — 5:31 AM on 9 July 1357 — creating the palindrome sequence 135797531, believed to have been chosen for numerological significance.
The bridge stretches across the Vltava River in stone arches, lined on both sides by towers and statues – the latter stealing the show! There are 30 Baroque statues and sculptural groups along the bridge today, most added between the 17th and 18th centuries. Technically, many of the originals have now been moved to museums for preservation, with replicas standing on the bridge itself due to weather damage over centuries. Still, standing there, you wouldn’t really know the difference.
Saints holding crucifixes. Dramatic robes carved in stone. Religious scenes frozen mid-motion. Some weathered heavily by time, others darker from restoration, all standing silently against the movement of the bridge around them. The most famous among them is the statue of Saint John of Nepomuk, the Czech saint said to have been thrown into the Vltava from the bridge in the 14th century after refusing to reveal the queen’s confessional secrets to the king. You’ll know the statue almost immediately because people crowd around its bronze plaque constantly, touching it for good luck. Over time, parts of it have become polished gold from thousands of hands passing over the same spots.
What also stands out once you slow down on the bridge is the view outward.
On one side, Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral rise above the city skyline. On the other, the towers of the old town cluster together beyond the river. Boats move below, swans drift near the banks, musicians play somewhere behind you, and the bridge somehow manages to feel alive despite being nearly 700 years old. And unlike the first evening we crossed it in darkness, this time we stayed. Stopped properly. Read plaques. Looked closely at statues. Watched people. Took photographs that still didn’t quite capture the atmosphere.
Because the bridge works differently in daylight. Less mysterious perhaps, but far more detailed.
And after spending several days in Prague, finally returning to Charles Bridge in the morning almost felt like closing a loop properly before moving into the next part of the day — one that would take us away from postcard Prague and into the far heavier history of the city during World War II.
Glimpses into World War II – Czechia edition
And then the final thing we did in Prague — a guided World War II walking tour through the old town and New Town areas. And that was heavy, on the heart !
Because beneath all the postcard beauty, Prague carries an enormous amount of 20th-century history — especially connected to the years of Nazi occupation during World War II.
The tour moved through ordinary-looking streets and buildings across the city, but what made it striking was constantly being shown what these places once looked like during the war year, in the form of pictures and cut outs of dated news articles.
One of the central historical events discussed during most Prague WWII tours is the occupation of Czechoslovakia by Nazi Germany beginning in 1939, after the Munich Agreement and eventual takeover of the Czech lands by Hitler’s forces.
Prague became the capital of the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia, controlled directly under Nazi administration. The city itself avoided the kind of large-scale destruction seen elsewhere in Europe during the war, which is why much of Prague’s historic architecture still survives today. But politically and socially, the years were devastating with Jewish communities being deported and resistance movements operated underground.
One of the most significant stories covered was that of Operation Anthropoid — the assassination of senior Nazi official Reinhard Heydrich in 1942. Heydrich was one of the highest-ranking Nazi leaders and one of the main architects of the Holocaust. Czech and Slovak resistance fighters trained by the British carried out the assassination in Prague, attacking his car while it moved through the city. The operation itself succeeded — Heydrich later died from his injuries — but the Nazi retaliation was brutal. The tour eventually ended at the Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius, where the resistance fighters hid afterward inside the crypt beneath the church. Nazi forces later surrounded the building, leading to an hours-long siege. Rather than surrender, the resistance members died inside the church.
And honestly, hearing these stories while physically standing in Prague felt heavy.
The tour also touched upon Prague’s Jewish history during the war years — deportations from the city, the role of the nearby Theresienstadt Ghetto, and how much of Prague’s Jewish Quarter survived architecturally despite the destruction of communities themselves.
Prague is easy to romanticise — and fairly so — but this part of the city’s history reminds you that beneath all the Gothic towers and fairy-tale aesthetics lies a very real and difficult past that shaped the city just as deeply as its medieval history did.
The End of It
And that was it. The last of Prague.
We walked back to our BnB slower than usual, probably reminiscing the last of it — the tram bells in the distance, the cold air hitting harder near the river, the old town lanes that had stopped needing maps.
Back at the BnB, reality returned – open suitcases on the floor, jackets drying up to be packed, figuring out how to fit souvenirs into already overflowing bags. The usual end-of-trip ritual.
But Prague had turned out to be so much more than what I had imagined before coming here, a lot more than just a pretty European city – a certain heaviness relayed in the form of the WWII tour (something we’d done for the first time, heard real stories from the family member of a survivor) – one moment we were standing beneath cathedral ceilings built centuries ago, and the next we were listening to stories from World War II in Prague, resistance fighters, Nazi occupation, and places that still quietly carry those memories even today.
The overall Czechia experience (including Český Krumlov), was beautiful. Although not every single thing was perfect and not every experience completely lived up to expectation. But constantly changing moods without warning. Stranded one cold evening, sick on another, festive during New Year’s Eve, quiet and snowing on most mornings. Grand for the most part of it. Touristy at times, yes, but never fully losing itself beneath all that.
And somewhere in the middle of all this, we had also crossed into an entirely new year.
So, from ending 2025 under the lights of the Prague Christmas markets to beginning 2026 walking through centuries-old castle courtyards and bridges – Czechia, and Prague in particular, became a part of our lives, stories of which we will remember for a lifetime !
Have you been to Prague, Dear Reader ? Would love to hear from you ! Drop a comment to let me know what you feel about this post, anything else you’d like to know or to just even share your experience.
