Scheveningen – A Winter Beach Retreat in The Hague

It was Christmas day of 2024. We were done with a very good week in Norway and were in Amsterdam for the last leg of our Dec ’24 trip. But the crowd of the so called Sin City had gotten to us, and we were craving for some silent solitude.

I’ve never been the kind to just tick-off guidebook recommendations, and thankfully I married a man who shares my sentiments. We love travelling together, walking miles and miles to explore a city, even tiny nooks and corners, and doing so, we’ve also ended up getting chased by dogs. And so it doesn’t matter whether we’ve seen all the museums, and all the Instagrammable spots. Together we wander and pause, embrace and savour.

So, off we went, boarded a morning train from Amsterdam which brought us to Hague in just about 45 minutes. As the train pulled out of Amsterdam Central Station, the urban cityscape gradually transcended into flat, open Dutch countryside. The low winter sun casting a soft glow over the fields and an occasional windmill standing tall in the distance.

And so, there was already this sense of calm from the start of the day. Once at Hague (Central Station) it was a short tram ride to Scheveningen. There again, we couldn’t help but notice the stark contrast. Amsterdam, with its crowded squares, endless shopping streets, and ever-busy vibe, seemed miles away and Scheveningen was quieter, slower, relaxed.

The Beach

Scheveningen, besides being a tongue-twister of a name, is a district of the Hague in Netherlands, known for the chic seaside resort with a massively long stretch of sandy beach.
The entrance to the beach is from the Palace Promenade – an indoor shopping center on the boulevard. (Or maybe, we couldn’t figure out another entrance)

The first sights felt like being greeted by the expansive views of the North Sea. The sand, a pale beige, stretched far and wide, and the wind, sharp and cold. And very, very few tourists, unlike summer, when Scheveningen is packed with sunbathers, beach volleyball players, and just overly packed (as per pictures). I might have done a little dance in my mind as this winter beach felt almost like a private retreat. The only sounds were the crash of gentle waves against the shore and the distant cries of seagulls, their wings cutting through the wind.

The Pier

The Scheveningen Pier was quite quiet. A beautiful sight indeed, jutting 382 metres into the North Sea and bearing 2 levels – an enclosed lower deck and an open-air upper deck. The lower deck seemed (from the outside) to have a variety of restaurants and bars catering to the Christmas cheer. But, most of the shops and boutiques on the upper deck were shuttered down for the season.
The extension at the end of the pier has a hotel on stilts (De Pier Suites). Quite intriguing with the sea literally swishing beneath the rooms.
A beautiful Ferris Wheel, perched on the pier that seemed to take about 20 minutes to complete a loop. Can only imagine the spectacular views from the top – the vastness of the North Sea, Scheveningen Beach and The Hague skyline. Sadly, I’ve never quite had an inclination of getting into a ferris wheel !
And a bungy jumping tower from 60 metres above the sea.

The Feel

There’s something undeniably magical about beaches in winter – walking along the shore with that nip in the air. And more so, for a winter baby like me, who can’t tolerate the slightest bit of heat!

The Grub

Of course we had the most sumptuous Christmas lunch.
There’s a whole row of beach bars, cafes and restaurants lined along the promenade, to choose from, offering everything from casual short eats to more refined dining experiences with stunning views of the seaside.

Our hunger pangs took us to Bigbell Steakhouse coz we were in the mood for meat. A huge restaurant with floor-to-ceiling glass facade offering uninterrupted views of the beach and the sea beyond, and a very cozy inside setup.

The Long Walk

The hearty meal called for a longish walk along the beach. By then, despite the winter chill, more people seemed to have hit the beach.

Families with kids, in awe of the waves and the occasional shriek of excitement as the retreating waves wet their winter boots. The naughtier ones enjoying their little fingers smeared with sand.

Dogs sprinting along the shore, some playing fetch with their parents, and some just playing with the waves, their paws sinking into the cool, damp sand as they bounded in and out of the surf.

Further ahead, among the driftwood and seaweed, there were heaps of seashells, piled high in some areas. These shells, some still with remnants of life inside, others worn and smooth from years of travel. And lifeless bodies of starfish, some crushed and flattened by the force of the water, others still whole but limp lying along the sand in varying states of decomposition. A bit of an unsettling sight, but a reminder of the unpredictable and often unforgiving power of the sea. Also undeniably fascinating, the way the seas and oceans can both nourish and discard in the same breath.

We walked past it all. As the afternoon wore on, the sense of calm deepened. And then it was time to return, to life and the beautiful chaos that is Amsterdam!