The Gateway to Bhutan – Phuentsholing

One can enter Bhutan either by road or by air. If you’re flying, your journey will likely touch down at the only international airport in Paro – a tiny strip of tarmac tucked dramatically between mountains, where landing feels like an adventure in itself.

But for those who love the romance of the road, crossing into Bhutan by land is an experience of its own – a slow unveiling of the Land of the Thunder Dragon through your windshield.

We landed in Siliguri, where we were picked up by our pre-booked taxi to go to Jaigaon, the last town before crossing over into Bhutan. The drive was peaceful, and honestly with beautiful views of tea gardens – something which I had not expected.

And the best part of a road journey through small towns and villages, it lets you binge on local food. We stopped twice, first to gorge on momos and the next time coz husband spotted jalebis which were had with hot tea and samosas !

Once we reached the border, we had our designated driver and guide waiting for us, who helped us cross over.

So Phuentsholing is the gateway into Bhutan. This bustling border town sits right on the edge of India, its entrance marked by a long, high wall and a single ornate Bhutanese gate. On one side – Jaigaon, the busy border town on the Indian side – all honking horns, crowds, and restless traffic. On the other – Phuentsholing, where everything changes in the space of a single step.

For tourists entering Bhutan by road, this is where it all begins — immigration checks, permits, stamping, and a gentle shift from chaos to calm. The border crossing itself feels almost symbolic: a simple archway leading into an enclosed walkway fitted with modern facilities, the immigration centre cool and well-organised in its centrally air-conditioned hush.

But the true border isn’t the wall – it’s in the feeling. Cross over and the difference hits you softly but firmly. The air feels lighter, the streets cleaner, the noise drops to a respectful murmur. The change in ethnicity is obvious and the pace shifts. There’s order here – a quiet discipline that hints at what lies ahead in the valleys and mountains beyond.

If you love a road trip, this entry is worth every mile – an introduction not just to Bhutan’s geography, but to its soul: calm, careful, watching you back as you arrive.

Once you’ve arrived here and if you have a little time in Phuentsholing before heading further in, stop by Zangto Pelri Lhakhang — a small temple tucked right in the heart of town, just couple of steps away from the Bhutan. This very peaceful sanctuary was the “Celestial Palace” of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava). Built in the 1990s by Dasho Aku Tongmi (the composer of Bhutan’s national anthem), this three‑storey temple is an architectural gem, adorned with vibrant murals and exquisite wood carvings that narrate Buddhist myths and spiritual teachings.

We did not enter the premises as we were quite worn out but as per our guide the place has 3 floors each unfolding deeper layers of symbolism.
The ground floor hosts a majestic four‑metre statue of Guru Rinpoche flanked by his eight manifestations.
On the first floor, you’ll find statues of Avalokiteshvara, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, and other Bodhisattvas.
Atop it all, the 2nd floor holds a serene statue of Buddha Amitabha.

Surrounding the temple is a quiet, manicured garden dotted with prayer wheels and fluttering prayer flags – pilgrims often take a clockwise kora, spinning each wheel and breathing in its calm energy.

For me, Zangto Pelri Lhakhang was my gentle first glimpse of Bhutan’s heart – a small, calm oasis just steps away from the bustle of the border town. I loved how people came by quietly, spun a prayer wheel or two, and carried on with their day – no rush, no noise, just the soft hum of prayers in the air. It felt like Bhutan whispering: slow down, you’re here now.

Take a few minutes, walk around the prayer wheels, feel the hush settle in – and let Bhutan show you its slower side, right at the gate.