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Gujarat

Rann Utsav

“Even in the most barren desert, one would still feel one’s heart beating” -Marty Rubin

A mélange of colours and culture set in the distant background of the massive white desert, better known as the Rann of Kutch or Safed Rann (Safed is Hindi for White).

This festival celebrated every year in the village of Dhordo in Gujarat is a unique manifestation of the love and zeal for life. In the cold winter months, the local Kutchis (people of Kutch) spread warmth with their smiles as they welcome thousands of tourists every year to celebrate the mystery and magic of the beautiful land of Kutch. 

Rann Utsav packages are available online on the official websites of Tent City and White Rann Resort. For the duration of the festival, an entire makeshift city is constructed in the village of Dhordo. More than 350 tents spread across multiple clusters and providing all possible amenities for every kind of tourist. 

Your brown girl had picked up a 2 nights/3 days all inclusive package at the White Rann Resort. The accommodation here was either a premium AC tent or a traditional Rajwadi bhunga and this is the latter. This isn’t exactly the traditional one but very similar in shape and design.

Besides accommodation, the packages offered by White Rann Resort include food (breakfast, lunch, evening tea, dinner), a morning and an evening visit to the Safed Rann (checkout this post on the Rann of Kutch), some local sightseeing, and cultural activities at the resort.

Lunch / Dinner served at the White Rann Resort. It’s all you can eat vegetarian buffet, with a lot of variety and very good food.
Breakfast served at the White Resort. Again vegetarian buffet, nutritious food and all sourced locally.

Very close to the resort is a huge area with flea shops and food stalls. Artists and dealers, mostly hailing from the state, but who over time have moved away to make a living, come here every year to display their products. Clothing from the local handloom industry with specific materials and embroidery, footwear, handmade artisan jewellery, unique household items and decor stuff – it’s all there. Some have even established full fledged businesses and available on social media platforms. And food, the best of Gujarati street food can be found here. All things sweet and savoury, snacks or meals, light or filling but so fulfilling! Your brown girl was pleasantly surprised that the very famous snack Dabeli has it’s origins in Kutch. Stages are setup in every resort for cultural performances.

This festival truly reflects the culture of the Kutchchi folk.

Local Sightseeing (offered as part of the package)
Gandhi Nu Gam –

About half an hour away from Dhordo, is a village called Gandhi Nu Gam which stands today bearing testimony to human grit and perseverance.

Historical facts – The devastating earthquake which struck Gujarat in 2001 had left thousands dead and millions homeless. The worst hit was the desert region of Kutch which included this village. Immediately after the devastation, Vastu Shilpa Foundation stepped in to resurrect the damaged villages. Gandhi nu Gam at Ludiya was one of the sixteen villages that received support from this foundation which helped bring back on track, the lives of those who survived the tragedy. The redevelopment of this entire village was carried out, re-creating everything bit by bit, very slowly and steadily, taking utmost care to preserve the ethnicity of the place. The project constructed 455 traditional bhungas, three schools, community buildings, production centres, religious shrines, even a water harvesting system.

Gandhi nu Gam which translates to Gandhi’s village is like a phoenix which has risen from it’s own rubble.

What a traditional Bhunga looks like.
Bhungas are unique to the region of Kutch, made circular with thatched roofs. These houses are said to be earthquake-resistant and eco-friendly. Designed from locally available material, their circular walls give them stability, and the design help to keep the interiors cool compared to the outside temperatures.
The art seen on the walls here is a style unique to this region. The Ludiya village folk have carried on with this tradition through generations.
KALO DUNGAR –

The next stop is Kalo Dungar (translating to Black Hill), the highest point in Kutch. On a clear day, Kalo Dungar is said to provide a panoramic view of the Great Rann of Kutch with orange hues of the setting sun as a backdrop. Unfortunately during my visit, it was cloudy with a chance of rain, so the best thing to do was enjoy the weather with the delish streetfood and local folk music.

That’s apparently a sunset.
458 metres above the Great Rann

Thank you for stopping by, dear reader. Leave a comment or just hit me up, if you’ve witnessed the most amazing Rann Utsav or wish to. And hope you get to see the beautiful sunset over the white desert. It’s supposed to be one of the most mesmerising sunset views. Your brown girl wishes to see it someday too. Till then, safe explorations and happy reading.

-Love from thatbrowngirlinblackboots


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