We had arrived in Prague late the previous night, the kind of arrival that makes morning alarms feel slightly unkind. The idea of an early start wasn’t exactly appealing – it required negotiation – with sleep, tired bodies, and common sense but a day trip to Český Krumlov had already earned its place on the itinerary, specially after we’d seen the pictures!
The Journey – How to reach Český Krumlov from Prague
We made it to Praha Hlavní Nádraží – Prague’s main train station, on time, which felt like an achievement in itself. The train, however, was not as enthusiastic – delayed by thirty minutes, the delay appearing casually on the timing board, as if that was always the plan. There was a brief moment of irritation, followed by acceptance. Coffee helped. So did the knowledge that we were heading somewhere that rarely disappoints.
Bus from Prague to Český Krumlov – One can take a direct bus from Prague’s two bus station, Na Knížecí or Prague Florenc, which takes about 2 hours and 50 minutes. (We found Prague Florenc to be more convenient given the distance from our AirBnB).You could buy the tickets directly while boarding the bus, but it is better to book online on RegioJet or Omio or Flixbus in advance as seats can run out. We did get stranded for a couple of hours coz we did not book in advance.
Trains from Prague to Český Krumlov take a little over two hours and depart from the main station.
The train journey from Prague to Český Krumlov takes you deep into the heart of southern Bohemia, and while it’s not a high-mountain scenic route, it offers a gentle, authentic look at the Czech countryside. As the train leaves the city behind, the urban sprawl gives way to rolling agricultural land, punctuated by rolling hills and small woodlands. You’ll pass through vast fields, clusters of quaint villages with traditional red-tiled roofs, and occasional stretches of open forest – especially as you move closer to South Bohemia.
So eventually, and with some more delays we pulled into Český Krumlov station, a modest stop north of the historic centre. Snow had fallen recently – not heavily enough to disrupt, but enough to transform a very ordinary station into a beautiful stretch.
The station is a short walk from town, ~15–20 minutes on foot. The route wasn’t exactly treacherous, but uneven and slick in most places with thick ice formations. Comfortable boots with thick soles really make all the difference here, and honestly walking is the only good way to explore a town properly and appreciate the beauty.
The Walk to the Castle – the best way to explore Český Krumlov
The route towards Český Krumlov Castle begins almost unnoticed. It’s not steep, but it is constant, and the iced cobbles slow you down – in the best way. Views open up in fragments – a bend in the street, a break between buildings. Every few minutes, there’s a reason to stop. Gloves come off for photographs, hands warm again in pockets, breath visible in the air. From a distance, the castle stands above it all, expansive and composed.
Budweiser Gate (Budějovická Gate)
The approximately 400-year-old Budweiser Gate is the last remaining gate of the city walls of Český Krumlov and your sign that town is approaching. One of the remarkable Renaissance landmarks in town in a very beautifully striking combination of colours which stand out from afar.
The old town arrives soon after on the other side of the gate, and eventually leading to the castle.
The Český Krumlov Castle
Český Krumlov Castle isn’t a single structure so much as a sequence of spaces – courtyards, arches, towers. Some sections close earlier or remain inaccessible during colder months, but the exterior alone is worth the walk. You will however need a ticket to explore the castle’s interior and museum and ascend the castle tower (we didn’t do that as it was closed).
Castle Courtyard I and Red Gate (Kašna na 1. nádvoří zámku v Českém Krumlově)
The Red Gate is the historic entrance from Latrán street into the First Courtyard (Rejdiště) of Český Krumlov Castle. This courtyard serves as the gateway to the rest of the castle grounds, offering access to subsequent courtyards and the upper castle via bridges, leading visitors through a rich history of Bohemian nobility.
The Castle Tower of Český Krumlov
Dominating your view from here is the Český Krumlov Castle Tower, the most iconic symbol of the entire town and one of the oldest parts of the castle complex. The tower rises in soft layers of colour – muted pinks, greens, and ochres painted directly onto its façade. These Renaissance frescoes, added in the late 16th century, were designed to imitate stonework and decorative relief, giving the tower its richly textured appearance. The tower has 7 levels, including an upper arcaded gallery, and its 86 metres of height above the Vltava River makes it visible from almost everywhere in town. Up close, the colours feel surprisingly warm against the stone, especially in winter light.
A historic feature of the courtyard 1 area is the Bear Moat, where bears have been kept since the 17th century, symbolizing the Rosenberg lineage. Currently, two bears call this moat their home.
Castle Courtyard II
The Second Courtyard (II. nádvoří) at Český Krumlov Castle connects the first courtyard via the bear moat and a stone bridge. This area features the oldest part of the castle (Hrádek), the New Burgrave’s House, the Mint (now ticket office), and the entrance to the Castle Museum and Tower, offering a blend of Renaissance and Baroque architecture.
Cloak Bridge OR Plášťový
Walking further ahead from the 2nd courtyard and passing the smaller 3rd and 4th courtyards is the Cloak Bridge. This bold structure spans the deep ravine, artificially deepened in the Middle Ages, between Upper Castle and the 5th courtyard. It could easily be called one of the most popular spots in the entire castle as it lends a sweeping panoramic view of Český Krumlov. The views from above – rooftops dusted white, the town held in the curve of the river – feel quietly complete without needing anything added.
The final viewpoint
A couple of meters past the Cloak Bridge, a doorway leads you to a patio of sorts with an expansive view of the entire city and the castle itself at a distance. Umm, don’t be surprised if there’s a queue waiting to get the pictures from the perfect corner.
This route eventually leads to the castle’s exit on the other side of the complex.
Beyond the exit gates, a nice walking route leads you towards the city center and the same parking area which was visible from the right side standing on the cloak bridge.
Lávka Pod Zámkem
Following the same path, you arrive on the narrow bridge which was visible from the Cloak Bridge itself.
We’d spent far too long exploring Český Krumlov Castle – moving slowly between courtyards, stopping repeatedly at viewpoints, and lingering wherever the beauty unfolded itself in layers of roofs, river, and winter light. We were hungry and wandered into the narrow pathways which led us into the thick of the town and found ourselves stepping into the Český Krumlov Christmas market, tucked in the town square. The usual sights – wooden stalls, lights hung overhead, laughter and glee but we were too famished and just moved from stall to stall figuring out the best new food item to try.
And try we did – 2 new items – cabbage soup with pancake and Lángos (deep fried flatbread with ketchup and cheese) and honestly none stirred our soul, but did relieve us of the hunger pangs.
I honestly can’t remember the last time I was so eager to finish / get rid of / dump the food, it was that bad (for my tastebuds). (And easier to understand what I mean if Indian or from an Indian descent). But soon after we walked into a Christmas street and that uplifted our spirits well enough to last the journey back to Prague.
As evening settled in, we slowly peeled ourselves away from the Český Krumlov Christmas market and began making our way toward the bus station for the return journey to Prague, a 20 minutes walk outside the tiny town and a bit uphill but with some great views again.
The Long Way back to Prague
We hadn’t booked our return tickets in advance – partly optimism, partly the ease of a day that had unfolded without urgency so far.
That ease disappeared quickly.
Buses were full, our departure times uncertain, and the temperature had dropped noticeably. What followed was nearly two hours of waiting – stepping in and out of the small shop at the bus stand, warming hands briefly, then returning to the cold to check once more. It was one of those unglamorous travel moments that rarely make it into photographs but stay with you long after.
Eventually – through a mix of crazy amount of patience and luck – we found seats.
The bus ride back to Prague was quiet, almost subdued. Warmth returned, movement replaced stillness, and fatigue finally caught up with us. When we reached the city, it wasn’t with fanfare, just relief – tired, cold, and oddly content.
Český Krumlov had given us a full winter day – slow beginning, long walks, unexpected pauses, and a tiny little adventure, if I can call it that but hey it ended neatly – we arrived back in Prague in one piece, with stories intact – and that, most days, is enough.
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