A winter weekend in Oslo – the gateway to Norwegian wonders

Growing up in India, one becomes accustomed to a relentless rhythm of life that doesn’t seem to stop, even for a moment. In India, the hustle isn’t just a metaphor, rather built into the structure of society. Whether it’s the pressure to succeed academically, to land the perfect job, or even to live up to social standards of appearance and status, there’s an undeniable sense of competition that’s ingrained at a young age. The concept of “downtime” is more of a luxury, one that many can’t afford because of the deep-rooted need to succeed, provide for family, and navigate the complexities of a society that values progress and “visible” success.
And when I compare this with the culture of the West, the sense of hustle doesn’t carry the same intensity. there’s a strong emphasis on balance, the idea that work and life should coexist in harmony. People take time off, prioritise family, enjoy long breaks, and revel in nature, which is a stark contrast to that of Indian living.

But why do I write this in a post titled Oslo. Coz these thoughts come to mind every single time when planning a holiday overseas. And I look forward with bated breath, to that pause button! And as I grow older, I’m more and more inclined to chucking that checklist of things to do and places to see, rather just doing the “slow travel”, absorbing it all and making it part of my memory.
And so, December 2024, we escaped to be in Norway, with their cold winters, long nights and breathtaking landscapes, and which started with a relaxed weekend in Oslo.

Touch down in the Land of the Midnight Sun

From Bangalore to Oslo airport (via Amsterdam), and then a brief train ride later, we were in the main city. I was in the Nordics, the first time ever. That glee on my face! Which was very quickly interrupted by the chill winter air piercing my bones. It was 0 degrees, but I wasn’t complaining! After the warm air of my home country, this was nice, pure and almost medicinal.

The First Walk

Our hotel was just across the station, and so we got checked-in and were out and about within the hour, on our first walk in a Scandinavian country.
We headed to Karl Johan Street, Oslo’s main boulevard, a vibrant thoroughfare connecting Oslo Central Station to the Royal Palace, and known for its lively atmosphere. The Karl Johan street is lined with grand buildings, charming cafes, and high-end boutiques and it felt like stepping into the heart of the city’s vibrant pulse. We walked down the wide boulevard with historical architecture on either side. The elegant National Theatre and the stately Stortinget (the Parliament) stood proudly in the background, their grandeur accentuated by the twinkling lights and huge bell decor strung overhead. The street was alive with people, difficult to say whether tourists or locals but all under the same spell that Christmas had cast over the city. We turned around the corner near Spikersuppa and walked towards the Christmas Market.

The Christmas Market at Karl Johan Street

Christmas Markets are something I look forward to whenever we hit Europe in December. The Spikersuppa Christmas Market although not comparable with the ones in London and Paris, still made me extremely happy.

Wooden chalets and twinkling lights with hordes of people as far as the eyes could see. The first thing spotted was cheese, and several varieties of it.

Walking further there were stalls with freshly baked pepperkaker (gingerbread cookies), roasted chestnuts, and gløgg, the Scandinavian version of mulled wine (or vin chaud in French and glühwein in German). We had our first taste of gløgg and decided we preferred glühwein better! But it did warm us up for a bit.

We wandered further into the market towards the ice skating rink and ferris wheel. My eyes widen every single time I see a ferris wheel although I’ve never climbed into one.

It had been a long day, and we were tired and cold by the time we had walked a round of the Christmas market. We picked up pizza slices (Peppes Pizza – so yum!) from the station and headed back to the warmth of the hotel. I remember feeling a sense of contentment wash over me while walking back. The first night had been everything I had hoped for and more. Just aimlessly walking around absorbing the place, celebrating the season and enjoying my holiday away from home.

The Morning After

Woke up to a smile on my face coz there was no rush. We had our morning coffee and stepped out to fetch breakfast. It was our choice to not opt for the hotel breakfast, as it would give us the chance to explore and eat local. We’d been outside for like 5 minutes when it started snowing. Were we happy or were we happy! We walked till the supermarket, though we had to be careful as it had started getting slippery already. The supermarket had a grocery section with some of the freshest green produce (so soothing to my eyes). Once inside, it took us about 20 minutes to walk through the several aisles and pick up some essentials including food and other short-eats. By the time we stepped out, Oslo had undergone a transformation.

The Magic of Snowfall

It had begun quietly, almost imperceptibly. The snowflakes falling slowly, like delicate crystals tumbling from the sky. Each one, unique and intricate, twirling and dancing while descending before gently landing, softly settling onto the surface of jackets, scarves, and trees, clinging like little frozen jewels.
(I remember the first time I had witnessed snowfall in 2020. From then until now, several snowfalls later, I still look up to the skies with that same sense of wonder and awe.)

But by the time we stepped out from the supermarket, the snow had picked up pace. What had started as a light flurry soon had become insistent. The snowflakes were larger and heavier, swirling through the air with an increased intensity. And the palette of the city was already transforming to white.

We stayed out for as long as our bodies could sustain the cold as we had literally stepped out in PJs with just an overcoat. It felt like the universe had bestowed this gift upon us on our 6th wedding anniversary. We were living the dream, a relaxed no-fuss weekend in Oslo.
And after we were done with what we called the “breakfast of champions” in bed, ’twas time to clean up and head out to celebrate our anniversary and life.

The Rest of Sunday and our Wedding Anniversary

Back again on a long walk crossing the Karl Johan Street and towards Oslo Sentrum, this time taking in the views while there was still light.

It’s funny how much different things look in day light.

After a long walk we had finally reached Oslo’s vibrant waterfront district, called Aker Brygge.

Quick tip on getting around the city:

Oslo is a very walkable city. Most of the major attractions are within walking distance of each other. Just be sure to bundle up and wear sturdy shoes for navigating snowy streets (in winter). But otherwise, here are some of the best options for getting around.

1. Oslo’s Trams, Buses, and Metro (T-bane) are all part of the same ticket system, making it simple to travel throughout the city.
2. Bikes and Electric Scooters – Oslo has a growing network of bike lanes, and many visitors enjoy cycling around the city even in winter. You can rent electric bikes or scooters via apps like Voi or Tier (but not ideal for snowy weather)
3. Oslo Pass – If you’re planning on visiting several museums or taking public transport, the Oslo Pass might be a good investment. It gives you free access to public transport and discounts at various museums, tours, and attractions.

Aker Brygge

This is the newest part of the city and includes a seafront promenade with fancy bars and restaurants and a chic shopping center. It’s nice to see how perfectly the area balances its old-world charm with modern architectural elegance. Once a bustling industrial area, the district has undergone a transformation, with old warehouses and shipyards now converted into sleek restaurants, stylish shops, and cultural venues.

We walked along the Aker Brygge promenade with it’s wooden boardwalks admiring the stunning views and the breeze which was now getting colder as it was getting darker. The area is dotted with small docks and boats bobbing gently in the water, adding to the maritime charm. The waterfront is lined with very stylish restaurants and cafes and some very well known ones for whipping up delish Norwegian cuisine.

We made our way to Jarmann Gastropub to celebrate our anniversary with some drinks and dinner. It was a Sunday and thankfully wasn’t crowded at all so we were ok without a prior reservation.

And that really was it. We walked back to our hotel coz we had to pack as we had an early morning day the next day. Nothing touristy, but I think we still walked across and saw most of Oslo, by day and by night!

The Afterthoughts

And now reflecting over that weekend, there was something incredibly soothing about spending two days doing nothing but wandering through the charming streets, and simply letting the city unfold at its own pace. A sense of peace which came no rush, no pressure, just pure bliss. Oslo, with its understated charm, had given me the perfect escape, a weekend of nothing but the very best: food, rest, and the quiet joy of exploring a city at my own pace.

More stories from this trip in the Norway category.