Marvellous Mumbles – December edition

It’s well known that December anywhere in UK is dull with overcast skies, cold and very few daylight hours. But even as December unfolds one day at a time, wrapping Mumbles in its crisp winter chill, the quaint coastal village takes on a unique allure. Despite the nip in the air, there’s an undeniable charm to be found in the cozy cafes, brisk promenades and gentle lull of the sea. Read through to join me in my journey through Mumbles on a cold December day where the warmth of community and beauty of the season intertwine.

We stepped out on this cold rainy penultimate day of December, bundled in layers, with the only agenda of exploring Mumbles on foot, as isn’t that the best way to explore a quaint little town. The first stop was for breakfast at a lovely cafe called Rag and Bone and post fuel we embarked on the awaited walk.

Walking away from the cafe and towards the Mumbles Promenade which could be called the heart of Mumbles and which serves as the main artery of the village. The Mumbles Promenade offers a delightful coastal stroll that winds its way along the picturesque Swansea Bay, stretching from the heart of Mumbles (Village) to the charming village of Blackpill and lined throughout with a mix of Victorian era buildings, shops and boutiques, quaint cafes and bars and hints of lush green.

After a pleasant walk through the promenade and Mumbles Village, we made our way to Oystermouth Castle, through narrow winding paths and then uphill all the way to the castle entrance and the impressive medieval ruins and sweeping views of the surrounding landscape seemed to opening their arms and greeting us. Can’t say the same for the castle though, as it was closed for the season.

Oystermouth Castle, standing proudly atop a rocky hill overlooking the village of Mumbles and Swansea Bay, presents a striking silhouette against the backdrop of the Welsh coastline. From the outside, the castle’s rugged and weathered walls tell tales of centuries past, evoking a sense of mystery and history. Adding further to the mystery is the popular legend of the “Lady in White”. According to local folklore, the Lady in White is said to be the ghost of a woman who haunts the castle grounds, appearing as a spectral figure dressed in flowing white robes. And whilst we were circling the castle, I couldn’t help but imagine a rather disastrous sudden encounter with the beautiful lady in white.

Later in the day while we were out dunking ales at a popular hideout in the village, we got into a conversation with the bartender and couple of locals who had more stories to tell about the infamous lady. As per them, the Lady in White is the ghost of a woman who tragically lost her life at the castle under mysterious circumstances. Some versions of the story claim that she was a noblewoman who was murdered by a jealous lover, while others suggest that she died by suicide after being betrayed by her husband. The Lady in White is also said to wander the castle’s halls and courtyards, appearing to visitors and staff alike as a harbinger of misfortune or a warning of impending danger. Apparently, some witnesses claim to have heard her disembodied voice echoing through the corridors, while others report feeling a chill in the air or experiencing unexplained phenomena in her presence.
Well thankfully for us, there was a sudden storm and we were forced to venture away quickly from the castle in search of shelter to shield ourselves from the torrential rains which came from nowhere.

Nothing like visiting a church after an eerie castle! For that’s where we went to the All Saints Church, another magnificent and historic landmark and nestled amidst the charming streets of Mumbles. This iconic church is said to have been a focal point of community life for centuries, offering a place of worship, solace, and celebration for locals and visitors alike.

Fab day, more than 10 kms of walk around and we’d had our fill of spookiness for the day and were drenched enough, so we walked back to our AirBnB stay to get changed and head out for drinks and dinner and gossip of the day.